A Mexican Getaway :: Luxurious Cancun

If you're like our fabulous Style & Travel Editor, Jason Salzenstein, you could probably use a short break from cold weather, snow, and/or gray skies right now. Setting out to find a warm destination that wasn't going to break the bank, he discovered a tropical getaway just south of the border...

Boston is freezing right now- literally. And while I love the snow (and let's be honest, the opportunity to wear giant scarves and fabulous cashmere sweaters), after eight weeks of down jackets I needed to escape to a place where I could slip on some shorts, lie in the sun, and sip a fruity cocktail... or four. Of course a good spa, excellent service, gourmet restaurants, good shopping, and a couple unique cultural activities are also on my list of requirements for any destination.

Given the state of the economy -and my budget- price was also a factor. Luckily, I didn't have to look far, and thanks in part to the depressing economic situation, there are a lot of great deals to be found- especially at luxury properties.

On the hunt for a short vacation that wouldn't cost me a fortune, I discovered the Fiesta Americana Grand Coral Beach Cancun (which will lovingly be abbreviated as "FAG" periodically from here on out) on the Mayan Gold Coast, and decided to take a short getaway that ended up being exactly what the doctor ordered. (Although he might not have recommended quite as many margaritas...)

The Mexican Caribbean

Located in the southeast of the Gulf of Mexico, in the Caribbean Sea, Cancun is a town developed specifically for tourism. The city is easy to get to from nearly anywhere in the US, the climate is beautiful all year round, and the ocean is usually calm, crystal clear, and clean- making it a perfect vacation destination for those seeking sun and sand, as well as a whole list of other offerings.

Surprisingly, the exchange rate is pretty good right now, making Mexico much more affordable than many other destinations. Additionally, because of current economic "issues," many resorts in Cancun- even high-end, five-star luxury resorts- are offering great deals and promotions, allowing visitors to get more for their money, and experience a more glamorous vacation than you might normally get to have.

The current promotion at the Fiesta Americana Grand is one of the best deals in Cancun right now. With a minimum three-night stay, each room comes with a $200 voucher good for spa treatments, food and beverage, and onsite activities at the resort. Combine that with their seasonally lower room rates, impeccable service, and record 15-year AAA Five Diamond status, and you've got an opportunity that was too fabulous for me to pass up.

I just got back from a trip to this incredible resort- and I can't wait to go back.

Here's what I found...

THE RESORT

A tropical paradise

I arrived in Cancun around 1pm local time after an easy 4-hour flight from Boston (where I left 20-degree weather and blustery winds). Having only been to Cancun once -on a horrible trip a few years ago- I was a little trepidatious, but the research I'd done on the Fiesta Americana Grand was all positive. As soon as I arrived and stepped into the resort's grand lobby, I knew I was in for a fabulous time.

I've often seen commercials for beautiful resorts in warm, tropical locales on TV, or watched as characters in movies visited beach resorts, and thought, "that's where I want to be... but I'm sure it doesn't really exist." It turns out that the "dream" locale from ads is in fact Cancun, and the resort is the Fiesta Americana Grand. The beachfront is immaculate and expansive, the pools sparkle magnificently, and the staff is everything you'd want them to be- including very attractive!

Although most of the resorts in Cancun's Hotel Zone are five-star properties, the FAG is one of only three that's earned AAA's prestigious Five Diamond Hotel Award for 2008; in fact they've received this award for a record 15 years. They're also a member of Leading Hotels of the World, so it goes without saying that this place is at the top of the list of resorts in Cancun.

I was immediately struck by the service, which is impeccable; in fact, it felt a bit like being at Daddy Warbucks' house- minus the singing. Everyone who helped me during my stay was friendly and eager to please, without being pushy or overbearing.

If you're concerned about security as a vacationing American in Mexico- and given some of the high-profile news reports over the past year or so, it's not unreasonable- don't be. Security at the resort is top-notch; given the number of security men walking around, you can't even sneeze without a well-suited security guard speaking quietly into their hidden mic. I've never felt more secure at an international resort.

Location, Location, Location

Aside from the fabulous resort itself, the location of the Fiesta American Grand couldn't be better. To start with, they've got prime beachfront with plenty of room for lying out, building sand castles, and swimming in the ocean. On the other side of the hotel, you're a short walk from the best nightlife in town, five minutes by car to fabulous shopping, and only a stone's throw from Starbucks!

Rooms

Looking for luxury? How about this: all of the rooms at the Fiesta Americana Grand are suites, and all have ocean views. Junior Suites -the "standard"- are plenty spacious for two people, feature marble floors and bathrooms, and are decorated in muted tones that fit the Mexican Caribbean style. If you want to feel like a king (or queen- I don't judge!), go for a Master Suite. To call it "spacious" would be the understatement of the year- you could park a few hummers in one of these rooms. Needless to say, you won't be cramped, no matter what room you book.

All suites feature a large sleeping area, a separate sitting area, and plenty of room to work on your laptop, if you simply can't leave it at home. They're equipped with a fully-stocked mini-bar, a large flat-screen TV, and a terrace or balcony that's large enough to take breakfast or drink Champagne on and listen to the waves- something I highly recommend.

The bathroom

Staying in a Master Suite, when I walked into my bathroom, my jaw dropped- and I'm not easily impressed. Bigger than any Broadway star's dressing room, the main area is large enough that I could have taught ballroom dancing in it (not that I know how), without fear of hitting walls. As one would expect of any five-star property, the toilet is separated in its own room- mine just happened to have an incredible view of the ocean as well!

Of course there's a large shower (it could easily fit two... or three), and once you're done there you can move the party to the Jacuzzi tub- inviting a neighbor or two if you're so inclined; there's plenty of room. There must be 25-feet of vanity space, and the resort doesn't skimp when it comes to (high quality Gilchrist & Soames) products- my suite featured full-size bottles, and enough of them to wash, shampoo, condition, and moisturize a small herd of horses. (With enough fluffy towels to dry them afterwards, although they'd have to fight for a robe as there were "only" four.) I also liked the extra touches, including mouthwash, two styles of bar soap, and packets of bath salts.

My only complaints regarding the room are small. First, the use of florescent lighting in the bathroom is horrid, and I heard as much from at least three others during my stay (and not all vane queens mind you...). If you ever want to see what you'd look like after five too many cocktails, with gray, blotchy skin and deep shadows under your eyes, you're in luck! Second, you'll be charged $3.50 to make your own mini pot of coffee (three small cups); at a five-star, Five Diamond resort, coffee should be free, even if that means raising the price of the room $5.

(As a side note, the only other complaint I had with the resort was with the horrible elevator music versions of What a Feeling, My Heart Will Go On, songs from Evita and the like that played throughout the hotel. I've never been so overall satisfied with a hotel property.)

DAY ONE

The beach

The beach at the Fiesta Americana Grand is expansive and clean, and features soft sand and a wait staff ready to deliver fruity frozen drinks quickly and often. (Guess where I was?)

Lifeguards are on duty during the day, and at night the beach is well lit, so you can sit and listen to the waves, look out at the horizon, and feel extremely safe. There are plenty of beach loungers, ample huts to protect those who wish to stay out of the sun, and queen-size beach beds available for rent as well (complete with pillows and dedicated wait staff). Of course the resort has towel service, as well as a 600-foot multilevel pool that overlooks the beach, a children's pool, and three swim-up bars.

Dinner :: Isla Contoy

If fresh seafood is your thing, you'd be hard pressed to find a better restaurant than Isla Contoy, the casual outdoor option at the Fiesta Americana Grand. The restaurant is casual yet elegant, sits in the open-air, and overlooks the beach, so you get to enjoy the sounds of the ocean while selecting whatever delicacies of the sea suits your fancy. Each night's menu features a handful of daily specials, but fish fans will want to order the "buffet," which would be more called "your own personal fisherman and private chef."

If you opt for this personalized option, you'll select exactly the seafood you want- not just the type, but the actual fillets, prawns, lobster tails, scallops, etc.- and the chefs will prepare your meal to perfection. Each person at my table had a different presentation based on what they'd selected, and each was more beautiful than the next. And although everyone seemed more than happy with their choices as they were prepared, a platter of five fresh sauces, designed to bring out and enhance the flavors, accompanied the dishes. In the end, there wasn't much left on anyone's plate, and given the sounds of awe when they arrived and contentment when they left, I'd say this meal went over very well.

A vegetarian, I didn't partake in the bounty of seafood, instead choosing among the half dozen or so salad options that accompanied my fellow diners' spread. I also ordered a vegetable terrine, which was presented as skillfully and artistically as any I've seen at the best restaurants in France.

Dessert was simple, elegant, and divine: two flavors of cr?me brul?e accompanied by a single strawberry and a sliver of a cookie to be dipped in a vanilla cr?me sauce dotted with fruit pur?e. Of course this was followed by coffee and accompanying cookies and nibbles.

A final finishing touch...

As if dinner and dessert weren't enough, when I returned to my room tonight after dinner I found a small plate of treats- chocolates, miniature cakes and the like- waiting for me. I have three words for my first day at the Fiesta Americana Grand: Fab. U. Lous.

Still to come :: an underground river, nightlife, and lots of food!

DAY TWO

Breakfast :: Vi?a del Mar

Quite simply, the breakfast spread at the Fiesta Americana Grand is amazing- and I knew that even before I noticed the Mimosas and Bloody Mary bar. A truly international resort, the morning's meal featured all the best breakfast dishes from Europe, the U.S., Mexico, and Japan. Feeling like a combination of a vintage Benetton ad and Brangelina, I went for them all.

From the pain au chocolat and flaky, buttery croissants to the apple empanadas, hash browns and home fries, to the French toast, tofu, pickled vegetables, mini muffins, quesadillas, and fruit, it was all top-notch.

No matter how many stars a hotel has or how famous their chef, I'm always a bit leery of buffet breakfasts. And although I've certainly had my share of "good" buffets (largely at high end Vegas resorts), I've always walked away saying something along the lines of, "It was a good buffet, but it was still a buffet."

Not here. This fantastic meal was a spread.

The spa

I spent a lazy morning around the pools and on the beach, all the while looking forward to the spa treatment I had scheduled for the afternoon. At one point I actually considered cancelling my treatment; simply lying under a little hut listening to the sounds of the waves with a warm breeze coming in off the water had left me more relaxed than I've been in years. Luckily I kept my appointment, because I quickly went from relaxed and happy to a state of sheer bliss, experiencing something that I hope everyone reading this is able to experience at least once, and something for which I would give my left hand to do again.

Either there's something in the water at the Fiesta Americana Grand, or this resort is simply fabulous beyond belief. The cause of this revelation? Simply the most amazing massage experience I've had in my entire life.

Normally when I get a massage I like to have the whole spa experience- taking a steam, sitting in the sauna, relaxing in a large Jacuzzi, jumping in a cold plunge, then repeating for at least a few hours. Even without all that however, on this afternoon I was in heaven.

Getting a massage in a gauze-draped cabana on the beach with the sound of the waves only 20-feet away is surely what it's like in heaven. If the massage was the cake- and it truly was- then the setting for the massage was the icing. To continue with the clich?s, today I had my cake and ate it too. In fact, the only thing that could have made the experience better is if a tall, gorgeous man had been feeding me tiny chocolates and there had been a glass of Champagne waiting for me when I was done.

Of course the resort does have a full-service spa in the main building, along with a state-of-the-art fitness center. They're also in the process of building a new spa that, when opened, at 30,000-feet, will be the largest in Cancun.

And you can bet I'll be back to check that out!

Dinner :: La Joya

After floating around on a virtual cloud for a bit, I got cleaned up for dinner and headed down to La Joya, the resort's fine Mexican restaurant, for dinner. Offering a modern gourmet take on the classics, the food is unique and delicious. The restaurant also offers a large selection of tequilas and a list of creative margaritas that of course I had to try- all in the name of research...

Dinner at La Joya comes with a side of entertainment, in the way of traditional Mexican dancers and musicians who perform numbers throughout the evening. The costumes were gorgeous, the dancing spirited, and the music good- although sitting close to the stage I'll admit that it was often a bit of a challenge to have a conversation with the people next to me, let alone across the table. The food makes the conversational challenge well worth it though, and I'd definitely recommend eating at here on one of the nights of your stay.

Still to come :: an underground river, water sports, shopping, and more food!

Day Three

Rio Secreto

We were warned to eat a little something before heading out to Rio Secreto, and I'm glad I opted for a simple brekkie via room service because it gave me a tiny preview of the fabulous work of the Fiesta Americana Grand's brilliant pastry chef... but more of that to come. I ordered the standard Continental, which included a basket of divine pastries (the croissant and pain au chocolat were heaven), beautiful fresh fruit, O.J. and coffee. I was also pleasantly surprised at the price- it was the least expensive continental breakfast I've ever had in a hotel. After breakfast, it was off to the caves!

Given that dark water and small spaces are two of my biggest fears, when I saw "underground cave exploration and swimming" on my itinerary, I was more than a bit trepidatious. As it turns out, I was way more worried than I needed to be, and of course I ended up having an incredible time and experiencing something that I never would have done on my own. (I'd also like to give a shout-out, and thanks, to the pharmaceutical industry; there's nothing like a sliver of Klonopin to help you face your fears!)

Descending below the surface of the earth into the peaceful caves of the underground river that created the natural stalagmites and stalactites at Rio Secreto was one of the most incredible experiences I've had. The natural reserve is about an hour from the FAG, and you can get there by car (if you rented), arrange transport through the resort, or add pick-up service to your tour from allTOURnative, the company that runs Rio Secreto.

The brochure describes Rio Secreto as "a fantastical voyage, a magical journey," and "another world of extraordinary beauty," and I couldn't agree more. I can't recommend this activity enough. The experience of being led through ancient caves created by an underground river is spectacular and awe-inspiring. The guides are excellent- providing information and helping you out (even if you can't swim or are scared of the dark)- and I always felt safe and well taken care of. This is definitely something I'd do again.

The Rio Secreto experience is $49 per person, which covers the one-and-a-half-hour underground tour plus your wetsuit, water shoes, helmet with light, and a light lunch afterwards. (Plan on spending a bit more for photos of you in the caves; personal photography isn't allowed, but the photos they take are great. You can see some of me in this album.)

Dessert comes early :: Coral Caf

I'm a big fan of dessert, so when I read that we would be doing a dessert tasting with the Fiesta Americana Grand's pastry chef, I looked forward to it for three days. When the time finally arrived, the desserts were even better than I could have hoped for, with the bonus that Swiss pastry chef Yves Revelly was both extremely charming and very handsome.

Although I sampled "only" four of his desserts, it was enough to convince me that the Swiss can definitely compete with the French when it comes to both chocolate and dessert in general. Later that night I had the good fortune to indulge in a few more of this dessert master's treats... and by "a few more" of course I mean about half a dozen!

Shopping

Although I didn't have a lot of time between dessert and dinner (how often do you get to say that!?!), since the water sports had already closed for the day I decided to dash off for a bit of shopping to burn off some calories- and also try to do my part to jump-start the world economy. (Hey- I'm thoughtful; what can I say!?!)

If you're looking for incredible bargains on fabulous clothes or accessories in Cancun, you'll likely be disappointed. Although there's some fabulous shopping just minutes away from the Fiesta Americana Grand, you're not going to save much money on major labels. That said, you do avoid tax, and since shopping is something I simply must do whenever I travel, I hit the malls.

You've got two main choices for name brand and high-end shopping in Cancun: La Isla Shopping Village and Luxury Avenue. Both are five minutes by car from the FAG, and both offer a good selection of stores; the former being more of your standard mall stores, while the latter is all about names, sweetie... names. Louis Vuitton, Dior, they're all there- along with some odd tchotchke shops and a pharmacy thrown in as well.

Speaking of pharmacies, when your friends find out you're going to Mexico they'll likely put in an order for pharmaceuticals, most of which are available in Mexico without a prescription. I'm not recommending or endorsing it, but if you do buy Viagra, Zanax, Cialis, or even prescription allergy meds, etc., make sure that you're buying them from a reputable store (i.e. one that's in a mall or at the airport) and be sure to pack them safely for the trip home. (That's a hint: it's not always 100% legal to bring certain drugs back to the U.S....)

For more traditional gifts, goodies, souvenirs, and tchotchkes to take home for friends and family, head to the large market across the street from the resort, next to Starbucks. The place is clean and they offer great prices on Mexican pottery, handicrafts, and gifts. Of course you're not going to find one-of-a-kind handmade artwork, but considering how rare that is today anyway... What you will find are beautiful pieces that are sure to be appreciated -and used- by folks back home. (At good prices to boot.)

There are half a dozen or so smaller shopping areas and streets in Cancun, which offer nearly everything you could possibly want to buy. Let the concierge know what you're looking for and he or she can recommend which street or plaza would be best.

Dinner :: Le Basilic

Once again, another incredible meal that can barely be described in words. Le Basilic is the Fiesta Americana Grand's fine dining restaurant, as well as the recipient of the AAA Five Diamond Award and the best restaurant in the city. Offering fabulous French Mediterranean cuisine, the restaurant is elegant and beautiful, the service impeccable, and the food divine.

In fact, eating at Le Basilic reminded me of meals spent at some of the best Michelin-starred restaurants in Paris. The staff works together like a well-oiled machine, everything is cooked perfectly and presented with just a touch of flare, and when the food touches your lips you want to close your eyes and relish every moment. If you fancy yourself a foodie and like to be treated like a king, save a few pennies and splurge on dinner and wine at Le Basilic. You definitely won't be disappointed.

I had let the restaurant know that I'm vegetarian when the reservation was made and the chef had created a special sampling menu just for me. Some of my selections included Ravioli of saut?ed vegetables with herbs, in a butter emulsion, Cassolette of asparagus with spring onions and almonds, and Dark chocolate fondant, with mouse and sherbet. (Of course those were just the main dishes; there was a smaller dish preceding the first, between each, and following the last...)

To cap off a perfect evening, when I returned to my room I discovered a gorgeous plate of fresh fruit, along with a foursome of petite treats including a tiny lemon tartelette, a small cake with fresh whipped cream, and two fruit gel?es that literally melted in my mouth. (Of course I ate them right away- don't judge!)

Still to come :: water sports, one more meal, and practical info...

DAY FOUR

Water sports!

Although it was my last day at the resort and not exactly blazing hot at 10am when I went down to the beach, I was determined to get on a jet ski. I'll be honest with you- ever since I saw Madonna riding one in Truth or Dare, I've wanted to try it. Unfortunately, anytime I've been at a great resort on the ocean, either motorized water sports were forbidden or the water was dark- and I don't go in water that I can't see into.

Much to my delight, the weather in Cancun was nice, the water was clear, the waves were calm, and they had plenty of jet skis to go around! So although I'd have preferred it to be a bit warmer, I strapped on my life jacket, got a quick lesson from a (cute!) attendant, and set out on my mini-fantasy!

If you've never ridden a jet ski before, you should definitely put it on your list of things to do. I had more fun on this aquatic crotch-rocket than should be legal in one hour. I had no idea how exciting it could be to ride a machine through the waves, but with my adrenaline pumping, I quickly found out. The beauty of the thing is also in its ease of use and safety- there are no moving parts outside of the unit, and if you fall off, the jet ski stops quickly and you simply get back on and plug back in. I'll definitely be doing this when I'm back in town!

A final lunch :: Coral Caf

Given how good the food's been on my first three days at the FAG, I thought I'd give the last restaurant a try- and I wasn't disappointed. Ordering a simple "Proven?al" pizza (red and green peppers), I delighted in the simple fusion of flavors, and although this might sound crazy, it was one of the best pizzas I've had outside of Italy. The sauce was simple and light, the cheese salty with a hint of sweetness, and the crust clearly hand-tossed and freshly made.

Overall food score for the FAG :: 9.5

PRACTICAL INFO

Getting there

Getting to Cancun is fairly easy, relatively inexpensive, and you can usually find direct nonstop flights from most major US cities on one of the big carriers. I used ZipToGayTravel.com to book my flight, not just because I like to support EDGE advertisers and IGLTA members, but because they've got great deals on airfare and vacations. I got a nonstop from Boston for $300- and that was for a flight booked just two days before departure.

If you're reading this, it's still January, and you've got vacation time (or sick time- I'm just sayin'), get online and book a trip to the Fiesta Americana Grand Coral Beach Cancun NOW! Prices are great, the weather's beautiful (it was between 70 and 80-degrees every day I was here), the beaches and pools aren't packed, and the resort has some great deals. (Currently you'll get a $200 resort credit -with a minimum three-night stay- which you can use towards food, drink and spa services. If you love sun, sand, and luxury, you can't beat that.

Getting around

Renting a car in Mexico can be expensive, and driving can be challenging, and even dangerous for Americans; unless you've had experience and speak at least some basic Spanish I recommend skipping the rental car. Considering that the only time you're likely going to step outside of the resort is to go on hosted excursions anyway, it's much easier to use the resort's car service to get to and from the airport, and take a cab or hire a driver to go shopping or for day trips. You'll save money that way- which also means more margaritas!

Still to come :: resort style, and gay nightlife...

Resort Fashion

As EDGE's Style & Travel Editor, I feel it's my duty to say a few words about fashion when visiting a resort like the Fiesta Americana Grand. First of all, you might be surprised to find out that at this resort, you can actually dress very casually and be comfortable nearly anywhere on property. Of course some basics do apply- no uncovered bathing suits in the lobby, shirts at all non-pool restaurants, and Le Basilic does have an "evening wear required" dress code, although at a Mexican resort that doesn't translate to "formal," so leave the tux at home.

Essentially, as long as you use common sense and remember that this is one of the top, most luxurious resorts in Mexico, you'll be fine. That said, staying here I never felt like I was underdressed, uncomfortably casual, or should have been wearing a suit, tie, or even jacket. Being Mexico, everyone's a bit more casual and you don't have the elitist, old money snobbery that you often find in the French Riviera.

Gay Cancun

Nightlife in Cancun rivals that in South Beach and Nice, and offers something for everyone- including the gays. Most gay bars and clubs offer reasonably priced drinks, good music, and usually stage shows that include both dancers (i.e. strippers) and Vegas style reviews with drag queens and impersonators.

Karamba (pictured) is the largest club in town, and like most gay bars they're located in the heart of downtown Cancun. You can get there easily via public transport or cab, and so long as you use common sense it's very safe.

Picante, the oldest gay bar in town, is slightly smaller, and a bit cruisier. You'll also find a few other clubs downtown, each with their own flavor. For more detailed info on gay clubs in Cancun, check out GayGetter.com If you're planning on going to a smaller club, ask the concierge to call ahead to make sure it's still in business, and still gay- or has gay nights.

Sebastian's is the only gay club in the Hotel Zone, and if you're going out near the resort, you should also hit Coco Bongo, the most famous club in town. Although it's not a gay club, it's certainly gay friendly, and the shows will blow you away. Every night they've got Cirque-style performances, dozens of impersonators, and productions that would make Broadway and Vegas stars jealous.

The basics

Mexico's official currency is the Peso, and recently the exchange rate has been in Americans' favor. (If you like good tequila you'll definitely want to pick up a few bottles while you're there or on your way back, at duty free. You can usually save at least 30% on brands like Don Julio, Patron, and El Tesoro.)

If you don't speak Spanish, don't worry. Nearly all resort staff speak excellent English- in fact most of the staff I encountered spoke it better than some Americans I know. That said, learning a dozen or so phrases will get you a long way- as will a much appreciated por favor and gracias.

To see a few photos of the resort, my room, and some things I did, click here for the EDGE Photo album.