Viva Cancun!

Jimmy Im READ TIME: 7 MIN.

Though the physical effects of Hurricane Wilma's destruction two years ago are no longer visible, the repercussions still echo in one of the Caribbean's top destinations: Cancun. The decrease in tourism has left many locals moving to other locations or straggling for jobs. In a paradoxical moment, it wouldn't be surprising if tumbleweeds rolled through the white sandy beaches. But, surprisingly, this works to your advantage. There's less tourists, which means more personalized attention, room upgrades and practically the whole beach to yourself.

After a year of destitution and reconstruction, this Caribbean gem is beginning to thrive again with international tourists enjoying its pristine beaches, excellent shopping and percolating nightlife. This year cuisine is a hot trend exploding in several top restaurants, and spoiling yourself is once again the new black (despite the "spring break association of party party party, Cancun does quite well in the luxury market). It couldn't be a better time to go, so don your sombrero and andale!

Stay

I checked into the vast Caribbean sea glimmering with little undulation, waves licking at the white shores as palapas and sunbeds were nicely aligned in neat rows on the beach. A fine touch was the outdoor patios along the hallways, which offered panoramic views of busy Hotel Zone sandwiched between the Caribbean sea and lagoon.
But it was my suite that induced the gasping "ay de mio!". Clean, stylish and swaying just a bit from the cliche "Caribbean decor," it was fit just for a king (or queen!). The bedroom was as large as the living area equipped with comfy sofas and coffee table, and the three-room bathroom had luxurious Forest Essentials amenities and a jacuzzi to boot. My terrace spanned the length of my suite with sliding-glass doors and a view of their sublime beach too precious for a camera's lens, but magnetic enough to have me change into my swimsuit and head outdoors.

After hours of wading, sunning and relaxing, I dashed over to the Boutique Spa, a tranquil haven for those who love getting pampered the right way. Their spa menu was extensive, but I opted for the Hot Stones massage, so relaxing I fell asleep (a good indication it was damn great!).

All 600 rooms are suites and ocean-front, with rates that begin at an incredible $279.

Shop

Sure, the traveler's rule of thumb is to avoid solicitors and unofficial guides. But just outside Fiesta Americana, I met Oscar, who wanted to give me a tour of the shopping plaza. Even though I said no, he was persistent, telling me that he did "PR" for the plaza and he pointed to his office (which was the sidewalk). Humored, I let him walk with me and he pleasantly pointed out the hot spots and local dives. He told me the best place to eat authentic tacos, and the most romantic spots. He walked me to Black Pearl, an outdoor bar raised above the lagoon, telling me to avoid stepping on the iguanas (there were several) and observe the lagoon for frogs and crocodile. Having lived in Cancun for 25 years, he had encyclopedic knowledge of the history, the present and the gossip. He distinguished the ubiquitous outdoor markets and plazas for shopping and pretended to talk to the "secretary of tourism" on his cell phone. Sure, I knew his job was fabricated, but I discovered much more about the plazas from a local who went away happy with five bucks for the tour.

Eat

Whether you're looking for cheap eats or fine dining (a burgeoning concept in Cancun), you won't be hard-pressed to find a good meal. A bounty of Mexican cuisine can be found in the Hotel Zone and downtown, featuring authentic Mexican cuisine that will guarantee to put the fiesta on your palette. Casa Tequila (Blvd. Kukulcan Km 8.5 zona Hotelera) is a popular choice in the center of the hotel zone, featuring inexpensive Mexican on two floors. Just down the street is the trendy For something more romantic, head to the Ritz Carlton's Casitas, which features 16 private oceanside cabanas for seafood and prime cuts. The tables are pleasantly lit while gossamer drapes surround the cabanas, creating an ambience only the Ritz can offer.

Feel like treating yourself? Reserve a table at Fiesta Americana's AAA five-diamond Le Basilica for Cancun's finest French Mediterranean. Gourmands are lured by the sea bass.

See

If you come to Mexico without seeing any of their incredible archaelogical sites, the Mayan God may curse you. Less than two-hour's drive is the Mayan ruins at Tulum, which date back to 1200 AD. Served originally as a fortress city, Tulum is a much-sought day trip. After some exploration, take time out on the pristine beaches of Xel Ha Ecological Park, the largest natural aquarium in the world.

The ancestral city of Coba hides deep in the Yucatan Peninsula rain forest, dating 1,500 years back. Here, the tallest pyramid (Nohoc Muul temple) can be climbed for some commanding views. Myriad outdoor activities await, including some speedy ziplining through the forest. It's hot here, so make sure you try an ancient Mayan rain dance. You never know...

The cream of the Mayan crop is inarguably Chichen Itza, a three-hour drive but worth it. One of the New World Wonder's picks and Mexico's most famous ruins, this ancient city was the foundation of the Mayan calendar, most notably reflected in the El Castillo. If you come during equinox, you can see the shadow of the serpent slowly crawl down from heaven to earth.

Break out your best sunscreen for the quick boat ride to Isla Mujeres (Island of Women), an intimate and charming island only five-miles long, the perfect oasis for sunbathing, eating fresh fish and checking out the temple of the Mayan Goddess Ixchel.

Play

With the hordes of straight boys and girls heading down to Cancun for major partying once a year, it's easy to think gays don't have a home here.

The Hotel Zone is the strip for all the partying, mostly straight, and throughout the year you can find a diverse range of people. Straights drag out their token gays to , Cancun's oldest gay bar, for pre-drinks and relaxed socializing. The late-night party is really at Karamba, just a few blocks down, which features drag shows, loud music and an even mix of locals and tourists.


by Jimmy Im

Jimmy Im is a freelance writer and party promoter in NYC.

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