April 8, 2015
Montreal: Food, Festivals and More
Matthew Wexler READ TIME: 4 MIN.
For Francophiles without the budget for a blowout European vacation but a deep desire for rich cultural experiences, Montreal delivers in spades, particularly when it comes to food. Arrive with a hearty appetite, a French translation app for your smartphone and a Celine Dion playlist for the road.
This Little Piggy Went to Market
Montreal's culinary scene is booming. You may be hard-pressed to score a reservation at David McMillan and Fr�d�ric Morin's Joe Beef or chef Martin Picard's foie gras haven Au Pied de Cochon, so budget a few extra bills for your concierge to secure you a table. To counter those epic feasts, be sure to hit up the city's famed public markets, which overflow with a bounty of fresh produce, meats, cheeses, pastries and prepared foods.
The four major outposts each have their own history, but Atwater Market's art deco details date back to 1933 and offer perhaps the best photo ops. Be sure to linger at Premi�re Moisson, where you can indulge in fresh baked goods, charcuterie and other gourmet specialties.
Meat and Carbs
Maybe it's the long, cold winter or perhaps a blatant disregard for fad diets that have infiltrated U.S. soil - in either case, Montreal embraces comfort food like none other. The city is known for several quintessential must-haves. Start your day with a bagel from St-Viateur, founded by Holocaust survivor Myer Lewkowicz in 1957 and now owned and operated by Joe Morena, who's been working at the shop for more than 50 years. Boiled in honey water then finished in a wood-fired oven, the hand-rolled, chewy treat is worth the line at the flagship location.
No wonder Canadian's are so patient, eh? Between St-Viateur's bagels and a famous smoked meat sandwich from Schwartz's, you could spend the better part of an afternoon waiting in line. Yankees call it corned beef, but Schwartz's secret-recipe spice blend and marinade yield something unique, with pronounced hits of clove and allspice that take this over-the-top sandwich served up on seedless rye to a whole new level.
You may succumb to a late-night (or early-morning) poutine binge, Montreal's signature dish of French fries topped with cheese curds and gravy, but if you're looking for the real deal and can carve out a more reasonable dining time, head to M�che. The comfort food restaurant dishes up five varieties, including the BBP, a cholesterol-inducing pile of fries topped with ground beef, braised bacon, green peas, cheese and house gravy.
LGBT Festivals
Montreal is home to more than 100 festivals, so sync your trip with one of these major LGBT happenings to amp up your holiday:
Divers/Cit� (Summer 2015)
While Pride usually gets all the glory, Montreal boasts two major annual LGBT festivals. Divers/Cit� focuses on arts and music, including La Grande Danse, an outdoor house music extravaganza on Bonsecours Island (think pier party).
The Black & Blue 25th Anniversary Event (October 11-12, 2015)
What began in 1991 as a party organized by a group of friends has evolved into one of the world's most epic circuit parties and weeklong festivals. All proceeds are distributed through an established foundation that supports financial, health and social resources for people living with AIDS.
Image+Nation (November 2015)
Montreal's LGBT film festival returns for its 28th season of thought-provoking films that challenge, explore and celebrate our diverse community.
Slumber Party
Le St-Martin H�tel Particulier
If you're looking for an easy-access shopping binge, the downtown Le St-Martin H�tel Particulier is within striking distance of some of Montreal's best. You'll find mega destinations like Simons and Hudson's Bay on Sainte-Catherine West along with smaller boutiques among the side streets. The hotel's Bistro L'Aromate offers outdoor seating to take in the passers-by and bask in your finds, an indulgence that much sweeter due to a favorable exchange rate.
Hotel Le Relais Lyonnais
Housed in a building dating back more than 130 years, the Hotel Le Relais Lyonnais is conveniently located in the Latin Quarter (a 10-minute walk from Montreal's famed Gay Village). Historical details like detailed woodwork and bannisters merge with contemporary amenities, offering the ideal home base for exploring the city.
Matthew Wexler is EDGE's Senior Editor, Features & Branded Content. More of his writing can be found at www.wexlerwrites.com. Follow him on Twitter and Instagram at @wexlerwrites.