Food/Drink » Music


by Peter Sherwood .
Tuesday May 4, 2010

Alas and alack, the fabulous Jarnac is no longer, yet another casualty torn from the formerly fetid landscape otherwise known as the Meatpacking District. Unfettered, owner Tony Powe of the erstwhile bistro united with the folks at Alias on the Lower East Side. As we click our heels in delight, we may also hope that two more clicks will magically whisk us all the way across town in time for dinner or brunch!

Reluctantly skipping cocktails (spring cleaning, you know!) such as a classic Negroni ($10) or Manhattan ($10) or the lively Deluxe Lemonade Cooler ($8) with vodka, sour cherry and fresh squeezed lemonade, we elected for a bevy of greens to start. Smoked Trout & Green Apple Salad ($11) featured excellent fish, sturdy slivers of breakfast radishes, fingerling potatoes with sweet apple and a subtle horseradish dressing topped with finely sliced chives. Although Crisp English Cucumber ($7) and Shredded Kale ($7) were listed as sides, we found them to be happy appetizers. The cucumber salad paired nicely with celery, keen parsley, mint dressing and ricotta while the natural, slight bitterness of the kale was effectively removed by the acid of fresh lemon juice, the barest amount of olive oil, Parmesan and sweet currants, with sunflower seeds for crunch.

We paused for light Fresh Handmade Pasta ($17) in mushroom jus, tossed with hen-of-the-woods mushrooms, nutty sunflower seeds and a hidden bite from chile pepper flakes. Topped with Parmesan and a chiffonade of arugula, it hit the spot.

My fella stuck to his health regimen by ordering a lovely Oven Roasted Cod ($20. The great fillet bathed in a heavenly butternut squash broth with pearl onions, deliciously grilled fingerling potatoes and tender shrimp as playmates. Conversely, I veered and ordered the Warm Fried Chicken Plate ($14/two pieces, $17/three pieces) with a scrumptious side of Roasted Red Beets complete with orange-zested hazelnuts. While the drumstick was moister than the breast, both pieces were duly dipped in a decent, crispy crust.

Mini Ice Cream Sandwiches ($5) were simply adorable, with Il Laboratorio fresh mint ice cream and housemade chocolate chip cookies that reminded us of comfy shortbread.

76 Clinton St @ Rivington St
New York, NY

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